The Future of Fashion Through The Lenses of Sustainability: A Conversation with Shannon Foley

Our world moves at breakneck speed, and with it, fashion does too. With consumers becoming more aware of the impact that fashion has on the environment, the industry is seeking new ways to become more sustainable. What direction will fashion take in the future?

In a time when sustainable trade earns integers, artil has decided to create a series of five interviews with five young and talented women from very diverse fashion-related fields, from content creators to brand owners.

For the second instalment of The Future of Fashion, artil had interviewed the creator of the fashion blog The Leather Sweater, Shannon Folley (@shannonfoleyy) about her opinion on the role of sustainability in the current and future panorama.

Shannon, how would you describe the current role of sustainability in the industry now that many brands like Prada are stepping up their sustainability game?

"The fashion and retail industry is one of the fastest growing industries that exists, and this growth has caused severe negative social, economic, and environmental impacts over the past few decades. Thankfully, the sustainability movement that’s sweeping the industry is finally creating real change. Increasingly educated consumers are pushing for brand transparency in both manufacturing and marketing, and the younger generations have become fed up with the unethical behavior of many of their favorite companies (Zara, H&M, etc). Nowadays, many consumers hold sustainability as a standard that they expect companies to follow. Any brands that openly ignore this movement are missing out on a significant share of consumers and are quickly exposed as irresponsible and destructive. That being said, many brands have adapted to this heightened awareness among consumers through greenwashing. Unfortunately, that tactic works for many fast fashion companies, who advertise specific product collections as “eco-friendly” or “sustainable” when in reality, 95% of their business is still very far from it. Still, research shows the trends in sustainability are continuously rising as it becomes even more of a requirement for brands. I’m hopeful that sustainability will begin to play an even more important role in the industry, and that fast fashion brands continue to feel the pressure by activists and consumers for more ethical business practices."

Do you think you face any challenges when it comes to sustainability on a daily basis?

"The biggest challenge when it comes to shopping sustainability is, for me, the cost and accessibility of sustainable clothes. In general, brands that are sustainable cost much more to the consumer because it costs more to a company to operate responsibly. While I recognize that this is out of their control, and I admire brands who don’t cut corners, it’s sometimes not in my budget as a college student. That being said, over the past year I have significantly cut back on my consumption from fast fashion brands and have been more thoughtful in buying timeless pieces."

What role do you think our youth plays nowadays in terms of sustainable development?

"As a younger generation, we are truly the force of change in so many aspects of life (sustainability, politics, social justice, etc). While strides have been made toward a more ethical workplace, reduced carbon emissions, and better water conservation, issues have surfaced around greenwashing and false advertising. A 2016 study conducted by ASI Ad Impressions concluded that 58% of consumers aged 18-21 cared that there were environmentally friendly products being marketed to consumers, while only 38% of those aged 45-54 shared similar sentiments. These statistics support the argument that younger generations of consumers are growing more environmentally conscious than those who are older. Even in my own experience as a 21 year old fashion consumer, people closer in age to me are significantly more concerned with humanitarian rights and the environment when shopping than older generations do. I believe that the rise in activism on social media plays a big role in this, and the evolution of the sustainability movement comes predominantly from younger generations."

Are fashion and sustainability — long-term speaking— compatible?

"I really hope that fashion and sustainability can be compatible for the long term, and I’m optimistic that the trend will continue in a positive direction. After all, it wasn’t until recent years that unethical manufacturing practices came to light and a new generation of Earth-conscious consumers began campaigning for cleaner production. The major motivations behind this movement are growing concern for human rights, unsafe labor practices, and destruction of the environment. While fast fashion brands are driven by rapidly changing market demands, it’s the marginalized populations that face the brunt of meeting those demands. Child labor, corrupt safety inspections, illegal overtime, and low wages are just some of the factors that play into garment production for these companies. Record levels of carbon emissions and water waste are two additional forces behind the sustainability movement in fashion, and research has projected improvements that could be achieved if companies implemented small changes, such as utilizing recycled fibers and ecological packaging. It’s clear that the COVID-19 pandemic has created a shift in consumers’ priorities, and with this trend the post-pandemic climate will likely lean even closer to sustainability."

What can we do, as a society, to empower new generations through fashion to become a force for positive change?

"I believe that the fashion community and the younger, more educated generations of consumers need to continue to be a force for positive change. As a society, we need to shift our mindset away from buying whatever we want, and towards one of buying less. We can each do our part as individuals by opting for natural materials, and giving business to those brands that are actively fighting for the environment and social justice. I also would say that influencers on social media need to use their platforms to educate their followers and introduce their audience to ways of being sustainable every day. Too many brands have been accused of greenwashing (or the deceptive use of marketing to persuade consumers that their brand’s products or practices are environmentally friendly). Ironically, it’s those same brands that often promote through influencers whose followers trust so fully. By spreading these lies, brands are only undermining the sustainability effort for profit."